Watch Fashion Historian Fact Checks 'Air' Costumes | Would They Wear That

[Announcer] Air is a biographical sports film

directed by Ben Affleck that tells the story

of Michael Jordan's journey to Nike.

This is Phil Knight, the CEO and founder of Nike.

This is Dolores Jordan,

Michael Jordan's mother and unofficial business manager.

So how well did the film do

in conveying the looks of these legendary characters?

Let's take a look and find out.

We asked this fashion historian.

Hi, I'm Raissa Bretana and I'm a fashion historian.

[Announcer] So walk us through what Air got right

and mostly right about these looks.

The film is set in 1984.

It's centers around a Nike employee named Sonny Vaccaro

who revolutionized the sports marketing industry

by signing NBA rookie Michael Jordan to a landmark deal.

Costume designer Charlize Antoinette Jones

chose to highlight the subtler side of the 1980s in Air

which felt right for a story largely set

in a business casual office environment.

We see Phil Knight wearing athletic ensembles

at different points in the film.

This was an important moment in history,

because they were starting to become part

of everyday leisure attire.

Dolores Jordan was not only a devoted wife

and mother to a superstar, but she was also

a savvy businesswoman who pulled no punches

when negotiating deals for her son.

We see her wearing a tailored suit,

which became the symbol of professionalism for women

entering the workforce.

We see this look at the very end of the film

and as the costume designer explains

it was thrown together at the very last minute.

Although we see it very briefly towards the end

it's actually the costume that's been

the most heavily featured in the advertising for the film.

This costume represents

the most culturally recognizable version of the 1980s.

It's colorful and visually dynamic

and provides a dramatic contrast

to the understated men's wear

we see on the other characters.

This ensemble is very fitting for Phil

who is an avid runner

and probably the only person

who can get away with wearing athletic apparel

in the office.

Some of the costumes were recreated

based on actual images of Phil Knight,

especially those of him in running gear.

The so-called running boom of the 1970s

coincides with Nike's rise to prominence

in the sector of running apparel and footwear.

This would eventually evolve

into the fitness revolution of the 1980s.

During this decade, athletic apparel

began to expand beyond the purpose of active sportswear

and into the realms of everyday attire and street wear.

This is why it's such a big deal

that Nike went from a running company

to a pop culture phenomenon.

I mean, everybody had a tracksuit.

Athletic apparel was extremely influential

during this decade because it forms the foundation

of the burgeoning hip-hop scene

and that ultimately popularized sneakers

beyond the world of sports.

[Announcer] Let's break this look down layer by layer.

Our first layer underwear.

Boxers were a popular style

of underwear for men in the 1980s,

but they were not exactly conducive to athletic wear.

Briefs were a more supportive option for active sports

and typically featured an elasticated waistline

and a Y front design.

Tall cotton tube socks were fading in popularity

by the 1980s and were replaced by the trendier slouch socks

which gathered around the ankle.

[Announcer] For our next layer, the shirt.

Phil is likely wearing a running shirt

underneath his jacket.

Tank top styles were preferred

by competitive and distance runners

because they were lightweight and unobtrusive.

However, it was pretty common to see t-shirts

on everyday runners as well.

These were most likely made of cotton

because the moisture wicking performance fabrics

that we use today were still being developed

and wouldn't be patented until the 1990s.

[Announcer] Okay, and next we have the tracksuit.

Phil is actually wearing a blue and red

vintage Nike windbreaker from 1992,

which the costume designer purchased

for research purposes without the intention

of putting it in the film.

When the need for another athletic ensemble

came up last minute, she went with it.

Even though this windbreaker is from 1992

there's a little chronological wiggle room here

because this look appears in the epilogue

which appears at an undetermined amount of time

after the main story takes place.

Tracksuits were traditionally created

as a matching jacket and sweatpants set,

but the two could be separated

and worn with other coordinating pieces as Phil has here.

Tracksuits were first created in the 1930s

and were meant to be warmup attire

for track and field athletes.

It wasn't until 1967 that tracksuits would enter

the realm of fashionable street wear.

It was that year that Adidas made their first foray

into apparel and created an instant classic

that was recognizable

by the company's signature three stripes.

Shell suits were a variation of the tracksuit

that emerged in the 1980s.

They had a cotton inner lining and a nylon outer shell

that usually incorporated bold panels of color.

They were comfortable and lightweight

which not only made them popular

for the general public for the purposes of leisure wear,

but also popular amongst break dancers.

The tracksuit would soon become the unofficial uniform

for the hip hop genre and was frequently worn by musicians

like LL Cool J, the Beastie Boys and Run DMC.

[Announcer] And of course, the sneakers.

The costume designer cite two particular styles

that she used in the film.

One was the Waffle Trainer

which was the company's first shoe launched in 1974

and the other was the Air Pegasus launched in 1983.

Upon signing the landmark deal with Michael Jordan

the first Air Jordans launched in 1985

and made over a hundred million dollars in the first year.

This would establish Nike's presence

in the basketball market

and would transform the company

into a marketing sensation.

The Air Jordan ones in the black and red colorway

notoriously kicked off modern sneaker culture

and the line's annual releases

continue to be sought after by collectors.

It's safe to say that the launch of the Air Jordans

created the sneaker culture

that is still thriving today.

[Announcer] Next layer, accessories.

Phil wears a pair of wraparound sunglasses

that are boldly and unapologetically eighties.

This style was popular with runners and other athletes

because of their functional design and large lens coverage.

These sunglasses were Phil Knight's signature accessory

and were an essential component of the image he created

for the media.

As far as costume design goes,

they add a futuristic element to the look,

which supports his characterization

as a forward thinking innovator.

This guy is who you think he's gonna be.

You're the best thing that ever happened to this company.

[Announcer] So would you say this look is accurate?

Obviously, tracksuits were extremely popular

in the eighties, but this one that he is wearing

is from 1992, which technically makes it inaccurate,

but it's totally correct in design

for this moment in the film.

It brings the recognizable elements

of eighties culture into this film.

[Announcer] Next up, Dolores Jordan's power suit.

Viola Davis plays Dolores Jordan,

who is Michael's mother and ultimately the one in charge

when making his business negotiations.

She wears this look

for the highly anticipated meeting with Nike.

It's a stark contrast from the casual at-home wardrobe

that we see her wearing in North Carolina.

This costume is based on the actual look

that Dolores wore for the meeting with Nike.

This is a much more informal ensemble

when compared to the looks that she wore

for the meetings with Adidas and Converse.

The costume designer did this with the intent

of conveying the comparatively low stakes of this meeting,

which emphasizes the Nike underdog narrative.

I believe Mr. Faulk made it clear

that we weren't interested.

Dolores's meeting looks

are the perfect example of power dressing.

This was a fashion phenomenon in the 1980s

that helped women establish authority

in professional settings

that had been traditionally dominated by men.

The popularity of power dressing coincides

with the influx of women joining the workforce in the 1980s.

During this time many women sought professional careers

outside the home and had to introduce business attire

into their wardrobes.

Dolores did come from a professional background,

so it's possible that she acquired this suit

for her former work as a bank teller.

This costume highlights Dolores as the nurturing

yet authoritative matriarch of the Jordan family.

[Announcer] So how well did the costume designer

convey Mrs. Jordan's power suit?

Let's dive into the layers and find out.

First layer undergarments.

Standard women's underwear for the 1980s

included a bra and panties.

Pantyhose was an absolute essential for business attire.

These tended to be sheer

and neutral colors were preferred

for professional environments.

Still a wide array of colors and textures

were available in the commercial market

and could add an extra hint of pizzazz

to any fashionable ensemble.

Dolores would also likely be wearing a slip,

which would be used to minimize the friction

between the pantyhose and the skirt.

[Announcer] Next up, the blouse.

The 1980s favored rich jewel tones like this one

and the color palette of the period included vibrant hues

like fuchsia, emerald green, royal purple, and cobalt blue.

Her blouse has a standard notch collar,

but other fashionable alternatives

included feminine details like ruffles

or a pussy bow to soften the harshness

of the tailored jackets.

[Announcer] And of course, the power suit.

Central to power dressing is the all important power suit.

This was a woman's suit that drew upon

the sartorial codes of men's wear

and garnered respect and authority

previously reserved for men in positions of power.

The style could be feminized

by replacing trousers with a pencil skirt,

as we see in Dolores's case.

This type of skirt suit has since become

a staple in women's business attire.

However, the power suit of the 1980s

had a few distinctive traits.

Perhaps the most notable

is the dramatic silhouette of the era,

which featured enormously padded shoulders

and a nipped waistline.

Wide lapels and double breasted closures

were popular Design details

and the addition of shiny metallic buttons

added even more visual impact.

Power suits were popularized by designers

like Eve Salarant and Giorgio Armani,

and were frequently worn by fashion icons of the eighties,

like Princess Diana.

[Announcer] Next layer shoes.

For the meeting, Dolores has on a pair

of sensible pumps that were popular during the period.

These were standard in women's professional attire

and typically were solid colored

and featured a low to mid heel height.

[Announcer] Next up, accessories.

Delores wears a pair of large pearl earrings

and a coordinating pearl necklace.

Earrings of the 1980s tended to be very big and very heavy.

Clip-on styles tended to be more popular than pierced ones,

because the clips offered better support.

Dolores wears a gold broach on the lapel of her jacket.

Broaches were quite common during the period,

and like the rest of the jewelry

tended to be larger in scale.

[Announcer] Up next, it's all about the hair.

Viola Davis' hairstyles in the film

bear pretty close resemblance to the ones in photographs

of Dolores Jordan from the period.

When it came to hair in the 1980s

it was all about the perm.

Hairspray like Aquanet was essential

to get the desired height and volume.

Which during this period was pretty extreme.

[Announcer] And lastly, makeup.

In this and other scenes in the film

Dolores wears frosty eyeshadow

with a dark liner paired with a neutral mauve lip.

It's definitely more subtle

than the vibrant makeup we associate with the 1980s.

Usually you think of bright streaks of blush

and colorful eyeshadow that covers the entire lid,

but that wasn't necessarily what people

were wearing in everyday life.

[Announcer] So what do you think of this look, Raissa?

I think this look effectively depicts

the strength of women in the 1980s

and that's especially the case with Dolores's character.

Women like Dolores knew how to get the job done

and looked pretty good while doing it.

This isn't the most extreme version

of a power suit we've ever seen,

but it's definitely accurate

to the period and to the character.

[Announcer] Any final thoughts, Raissa?

Air captures this moment

when sports became more popular with a wider audience,

but also when sports wear

entered the realm of fashionable dress.

From Nike tracksuits to Air Jordans

we see the foreshadowing of trends to come

that continue to today.

Air captures the more understated reality

of a period that we typically associate

with bold and colorful styles.

But ultimately, this is a movie

that doesn't heavily feature fashion.

What we're seeing instead

is an emphasis on everyday dress.

Often costume design is not about creating

the most style stylish version of an era.

It's about finding the balance

between accurately portraying a time period

and supporting the narrative of the film.

Charlize Antoinette Jones challenges our perception

of the 1980s with subtle costumes

that put the focus on storytelling.

Our shared cultural memory of the 1980s

is one that has been highly stylized.

Turns out what we think of as quintessential eighties style

is really just an amalgamation of pop culture references.

That means the clothing that we remember

was not limited to the fashion world,

but also saw the influence of music, media and sports.