Substitutes for Floquil thinner? - Model Railroader Magazine

Railphotog wrote:

loathar wrote: Have any of you ever painted a real car with enamel paint? Did you thin your enamel paint with lacquer thinner? (I seriously doubt it) Why would you do this on a model? Enamel paint should be used with enamel reducer.(or the tolulene/xylene) I don't paint real cars, so it doesn't matter to me.  I doubt if they even use enamel these days, more modern fast drying high techpaints are used. I use lacquer thinner because it works.

I was going to stay out of this, but I feel that some additonal info might clear up a few disagreements here.  

  I teach automotive collision repair and can attest to the fact  that Enamel based paint refinishing systems (Single Stage Acrylic Enamel, Single Stage Urethane Enamel, and Enamel Basecoat/Clearcoats) are still used EXTENSIVELY in the United States. These products have undergone "high-tech" changes over the past 2 decades.    DuPont, PPG, and BASF are the dominant "top guns" in this arena.  Catalyzed Urethanes and Polyurethanes are tough, but quite expensive. Single Stage Polyurethanes Enamels are usually preferred for commercial transportation fleets because of their high durability properties.  This is often the choice of rail, trucking, aviation, and marine companies.  The prototype Santa Fe F units that were repainted a few years back were refinished in Polyurethane.  

  Waterborne Enamels are increasing in popularity, but not dominant yet, except in California.  GM's Saturns are factory finished in Waterbased enamels. 

Lacquer based automotive products are still available but are not as popular as in the past due to inferior durability.  An exception would be the House of Kolor lines owned by Valspar which include beautiful quality lacquer based products (enamel as well) used in custom paint refinishing. Very, very expensive.

For the issue of thinning the solvent based Floquil:

I have found that Automotive Paint Lacquer thinner works just fine. The paint cures to a tough, durable finish. Wet sanding and adding multiple colors is a cake walk.  The "Mineral spirits lacquer thinner", works in many cases but can be more of a hit or miss shot as far as adhesion and durability. 

Metaphorically:

Mineral Spirits = Ford Escort.  

Automotive Lacquer Thinner = Ford Boss 302 Mustang. 

For those of you that have been using Automotive Enamel reducers in lacquer based paints, that is also a "hit or miss" russian-roulette game that can work, but why risk it? Generally, automotive lacquer thinner is cheaper than automotive enamel reducer. 

BTW: Enamel products may be sprayed over freshly cured lacquers, HOWEVER, spraying lacquer material over freshly applied or freshly cured enamels can wind up destroying the enamel finish. Been there done that. 

Automotive Lacquer thinners in varying grade qualities are usually sold in 1 gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 gallon containers.  Wash lacquer thinner, used to clean spray guns, is cheaper and works well with Floquil and even Scale Coat II.

Guys,  Have you all forgotten Scale Coat II Thinner? Also a good product that you can still acquire in 1/2 pint cans.  Should be enought for a good number of HO scale paint jobs.

I use mostly acrylics now and utilize solvent based paints for metalizing.  After using the above mentioned products for 20+ years, I always recommend using acrylic based paints in scale model work whenever possible.